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Buying Guides : Climbing Ropes
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Standards:
UIAA - World-wide safety standards as specified by the UIAA (Union Internationale des Associations d'Alpinism)
EN - The EN (European Standards) are identical to the UIAA and are compulsory regulations within The European Union.
CE emblem - The CE mark is given to a product upon testing to EN/UIAA standards.
UIAA Standards:
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Rope type
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Typical
Diameters
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Number of
UIAA Falls
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Impact Force
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Elongation
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Sheath Slippage
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Single Ropes
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11mm
10.5mm
10mm
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>5
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<12KN
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<8%
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<40mm
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Half Ropes
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9mm
8.5mm
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>5
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<8KN
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<10%
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<40mm
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Twin Ropes
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8mm
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>12
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<12KN
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<8%
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<40mm
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The UIAA tests are carried out with 80kg on single ropes and twin ropes, 55kg on half ropes.
Rope Diameters:
11mm - For frequent use, training, clubs, schools, walls, mountain rescue, aid climbing and any situation where the highest durability and greatest safety margins are needed.
10.5mm - A good compromise between weight and durability for general cragging use, all round climbing.
10mm - Lightweight single rope for climbing situations near the limit of your ability or simply when falls and edges are few and far between. Those routes where every gram is a deciding factor between success and failure.
9mm - Half ropes for use as pairs. This diameter is the best for climbing on two ropes, clipping gear alternately and reducing rope drag on long or wandering pitches. Also a reasonable weight for glacier travel and general mountaineering use.
8.5mm - Half ropes for use as pairs. For use where both ropes will be clipped to the same anchor, giving an extra margin of safety in the event of rope damage, or the possibility of abseiling a full ropes length in retreat. More commonly used as technical mountaineering ropes.
8mm - Twin ropes. Minimalist ropes for extensive alpine type tours, walking confidence ropes, or to be used as abseil ropes in unplanned retreat.
Fall Factors:
The fall factor is the ratio of fall length to the amount of rope payed out and gives an indication of the intensity of the fall. It is calculated by dividing The distance fallen by the length of rope fallen on, and as such can never be more than factor 2. A UIAA fall as listed above is approximately a factor 2 fall. (note: most falls are less than factor 1/2)
Rope construction:
All climbing ropes (modern ones) are of kernmantle construction, which consists of 2 elements, the core and the sheath. The core gives the rope its strength and shock absorbing characteristics, and is made up of twisted nylon filaments plaited together. The sheath is the protection for the core, and how it is constructed affects both handling and life expectancy (a measure of which is shown by the amount of sheath slippage.) Ropes may be dry treated to reduce water absorbency (You should only consider those ropes that have treatment applied to both core & sheath. Treatment quality varies greatly)
Impact Force:
The impact force test on a rope is indicative of its shock absorbing properties. A lot of force is taken up by the belayer, friction in the belay chain, knots tightening, and then by the dynamic properties of the rope. The rope spreads a low impact force over a longer period of time to reduce forces on both anchor and climber.
Elongation:
The elongation test on the rope show how much a rope stretches under an 80kg load (for single ropes.) Higher stretch is generally an advantage in a fall (but don't over do it or you'll still hit the ground!) due to lower impact forces, and lower stretch is more suitable in abseil situations.
Rope Care:
- Check visually and physically for damage to core or sheath after every use.
- Avoid getting rope dirty, it can become ingrained and dramatically increases wear. A rope bag and tarp provide good protection.
- If necessary, wash rope in lukewarm water and air dry out of bright sunlight. (We sell rope bags and rope cleaner.)
- Store your ropes in a dark, dry, cool place.
- Avoid any contact with acids, oils, heat sources, and condensation.
- In use avoid sharp edges, standing on the rope (especially with skis or crampons) be aware of any possible rock fall damage.
- Coiling ropes kinks them, it is better to fold your rope or store it loosely on a tarp.
- If you rope becomes kinked, stretch it out across a field, or hang it full length down a big crag!
- Replace your rope after any particularly brutal falls, or immediately upon any signs of damage.
Guide to rope life:
As a rough guideline to the life expectancy of a rope, replace after 100 full days of usage, 2 years of regular usage at weekends and holidays, or after 4 years of relative inactivity. NEVER buy a second hand rope!
The above guide is obviously affected by use on rough rock, over rounded edges, top roping, or wall use. Common sense is needed as to the life of your rope.
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